COSMOS V4 Charter: A New Framework for Organic and Natural Cosmetics

Organic and natural cosmetics continue to attract an audience increasingly concerned about the composition and environmental impact of the products they consume. It is in this context that the COSMOS standard (COSMetic Organic Standard) comes into play, an internationally recognized certification framework for organic and natural cosmetics. Version 4 of the standard, which recently came into force, aims to strengthen certain requirements while also causing some controversy, particularly regarding labeling transparency.

✅ Positive aspects of the COSMOS V4 standard

Version 4 maintains and reinforces several fundamental principles, guaranteeing the environmental and ethical quality of certified cosmetic products:

1. Exclusion of petrochemical substances

COSMOS V4 continues to prohibit ingredients derived from petrochemicals, such as mineral oils, silicones, and PEGs. This exclusion ensures that certified products are more respectful of human health and the environment.

2. Rejection of polluting or concerning substances

The standard also excludes controversial or polluting substances, such as certain preservatives or sunscreens suspected of being endocrine disruptors or harmful to marine biodiversity.

3. Encouragement of non-polluting manufacturing processes

COSMOS V4 requires that manufacturing processes meet strict sustainability criteria: gentle extraction, respect for natural cycles, effluent treatment, etc. This contributes to cleaner and more ethical production.

4. Consideration of the product life cycle

The standard also focuses on packaging (recyclable materials, plastic reduction), transport, and the overall impact of products throughout their life cycle.

5. A harmonized international framework

COSMOS is recognized in several countries, which facilitates a global understanding of the label by consumers and allows for better traceability of products on the international market.

⚠️ Negative or controversial aspects of COSMOS V4

Despite these significant advances, version 4 of the standard raises some criticisms, particularly regarding the transparency of information provided to consumers.

1. Change in the calculation of the percentage of organic ingredients

Historically, the percentage of organic ingredients displayed on COSMOS certified products was calculated on the total formula, including water. With COSMOS V4, it is now possible to calculate this percentage by excluding water and minerals, considered non-cultivable.

➡️ Consequence: the displayed percentage may appear artificially inflated, which risks misleading the consumer. For example, a product containing 10% organic ingredients out of 100% of the formula could now display a much higher percentage if water and minerals are excluded from the calculation.

2. Less clarity for the general public

This change in the calculation method can weaken the legibility and transparency of the label, which is nevertheless essential for establishing a relationship of trust with consumers.

3. Risk of unintentional greenwashing

Even if the practice remains technically compliant, this modification opens the door to misleading marketing presentation. It can be exploited by certain brands to unduly promote the naturalness of their products, while the actual organic content remains modest.

🧴 Conclusion: a still useful label, but to be read with discernment

The COSMOS V4 standard remains an important benchmark for consumers wishing to turn to healthier and more environmentally friendly cosmetic products. It strictly regulates the composition, sourcing, and manufacturing of certified products.

However, this new version requires increased vigilance on the part of consumers, particularly regarding the interpretation of displayed percentages. Better informed, consumers can continue to make enlightened choices consistent with their values.