Pregnant Women & Cosmetics
I have many friends and acquaintances who ask me for advice about cosmetics and pregnancy because they feel lost, and for good reason! There's a multitude of information on the web about what a pregnant woman can or cannot use during her pregnancy, often contradictory information, with no explanation or scientific article or study to rely on.
Pregnant Women and Cosmetics: From categorical prohibitions to simple recommendations. How to separate fact from fiction without falling into an anxiety-inducing psychosis?
In this article, we will go through each ingredient point by point, explain the why, refer you to scientific studies, and particularly focus on a topic that, I think, will soon have its own article given its complexity and the cloud of misunderstanding surrounding it: essential oils.
But before getting into the heart of the matter, it is important to know a very important piece of information. Cosmetics are governed by very strict rules. Each cosmetic product placed on the market is subjected to various tests and analysis by a toxicologist. If a product poses the slightest risk of causing problems for pregnant women, the toxicologist informs the brand, which is obliged to indicate this to its customers. (Yes, we know there are always some who don't follow the rules, but that's not the case for us!)
To give you a concrete example, our BHA peel states that it is not suitable for children under 10 years old.
Need more help? Have a look at our article: INCI: how to find your way
Table of contents - Pregnant women and cosmetics
Endocrine Disruptors
Endocrine disruptors: This alarming and somewhat obscure term is on everyone's lips. But let's try to understand what it represents, the ingredients that fall into this category, and what it implies for our body and our health.
The World Health Organization (WHO) has proposed the following definition of an endocrine disruptor: "An endocrine disruptor is an exogenous* substance or mixture that alters the function(s) of the endocrine system and causes adverse health effects in an intact organism or its progeny or (sub)populations."
* a substance originating from outside the body
To put it somewhat roughly, it is a substance that will alter the functioning of the endocrine system, leading to a harmful effect or a pathology in the human organism.
The Endocrine System
The endocrine (or hormonal) system is found in all humans and many other animals. It consists of 8 main glands: the pituitary gland, hypothalamus, pineal gland, thyroid, thymus, pancreas, adrenal glands, and testes (males) or ovaries (females).
These glands secrete hormones (estrogens, testosterone, etc.). These hormones act as messengers. Simply put, the glands transmit information to the organs through the amount of hormones they secrete: transported by the blood, hormones attach to specific receptors in the cells and thus trigger their biological effects.
The endocrine system is essential for the proper functioning of our body. Endocrine disruptors alter the functioning of this system by interacting with the synthesis, degradation, transport, and mode of action of hormones.
However, it is worth noting that most substances classified as endocrine disruptors are most often only suspected of having this type of activity.
Pregnant women and cosmetics
Endocrine Disruptors: List.
Parabens were the great victim of the panic that gripped cosmetics. We have all witnessed numerous brands using "Paraben-Free" as a slogan (which, by the way, is completely forbidden to highlight. It's a claim about a chemical family of substances, some of which are banned and others allowed, thus creating confusion among consumers and unfounded fears). However, the term Paraben represents a family of substances that are not all harmful to your body and are found all around us.
The entire family of parabens was therefore discarded in favor of substances that are often not very clean either, such as Methylisothiazolinone or Methylchloroisothiazolinone. Replacing the Devil with Beelzebub, in short!
So, not all parabens are harmful and dangerous. Some have been cleared by experts, like ethylparaben and methylparaben, while others are completely forbidden, like isobutyl or phenylparaben. Others are still authorized... but are to be avoided!
How to know which ones to avoid? I discovered a good way to remember them while searching online: Those starting with P or B are Not Good (Pas Bon in French)!
BUTYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, SODIUM BUTYLPARABEN, SODIUM PROPYLPARABEN, POTASSIUM BUTYLPARABEN, POTASSIUM PROPYLPARABEN
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There are about ten phthalates (BBP, DBP, DEHP, DINP, DCHP, DNOP, DMP...). They are chemical derivatives of phthalic acid.
And this is where we find the two substances we mentioned earlier that replaced parabens: MIT (Methylisothiazolinone) and MCIT (Methylchloroisothiazolinone), used as preservatives.
Depending on the type of phthalate, the toxicity is not the same. The European Union has, since 2003, banned the phthalates deemed most harmful in cosmetics (DEHP, DBP, BBP...). The only one allowed is DEP, which is considered safe, although purists are also calling for its ban.
DEP is widely used in perfumes to fix and prolong their scent. It can therefore be present in your perfume or in cosmetic creams, which are most often perfumed without being listed as an ingredient as such in the INCI list, but encompassed in the generic term Fragrance or Parfum.
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Warning, I wanted to emphasize a small detail that causes a lot of misunderstandings! There are different "kinds" of BHA, let me explain. BHA is an "acronym" (a bit like an abbreviation) a set of initial capital letters that, spelled out or pronounced syllabically, forms a word serving as an abbreviation. There are a multitude of ingredients in cosmetics, and yes, it is possible for two different active ingredients to end up with the same acronym. This is what happens for BHA: Butylhydroxyanisole and BHA: salicylic acid (beta-hydroxy acid).
The first is an endocrine disruptor (which is precisely why we are going to talk about it in this article!) The second active ingredient is a chemical peel obtained from white willow with real benefits for the skin. Do not confuse the two! (And yes, it happens, even on websites specializing in cosmetic sales, they sometimes make the amalgamation!)
So, let's get back to our endocrine disruptors! BHA (Butylhydroxyanisole) and BHT (Butylhydroxytoluene) are synthetic ingredients used in food products as additives and in cosmetics as active ingredients.
They are very effective antioxidants used to prevent fat rancidity, but the list of complaints attributed to them is quite substantial. CosmeticObs also lists them in its detailed article:
- "Allergenic
They are first known to have sensitizing potential, which can cause allergies.
- Metabolized
Several studies have shown that these antioxidants are absorbed and metabolized, i.e. transformed by living organisms, and that they can induce dysfunctions and disturbances in various organs, animal or human.
- Persistent
After absorption, only 50% of BHT would be eliminated via urine. BHT and BHA can thus accumulate in the body for up to two weeks after a single contact... whereas a cosmetic application is most often daily, thus reconstituting the "stock" inside the organs daily.
Very poorly biodegradable, they are just as persistent in the environment. The Convention for the Protection of the Marine Environment of the North-East Atlantic thus lists BHA as a potentially worrying chemical substance due to its toxicity to aquatic organisms and its potential for bioaccumulation.
- Toxic to the liver, kidneys, lungs...
It is proven that long-term, high-dose exposure to BHT is toxic to laboratory animals. Its effects are then harmful at several levels: changes in the immune system and blood count, particularly a disruption of blood clotting, liver enlargement, damage to the thyroid gland and kidneys, biochemical changes in the lungs...
- Endocrine disruptors
Some scientific studies also suggest that high doses of BHT could mimic estrogen, a female sex hormone, and prevent the expression of male sex hormones, which would lead to adverse reproductive effects.
BHA is thus listed by the European Commission, as part of its research on endocrine disruption, in category 1 priority substances, based on its interference with hormonal function.
- Carcinogenic?
While BHT would not be directly carcinogenic, it could promote the development of existing tumors. BHA, for its part, could be at the origin of the appearance of cancers.
The IARC (International Agency for Research on Cancer) thus classifies BHA among possible carcinogens and BHT among substances whose safety could not be established." source Cosméticobs
BHAs are less and less present in cosmetics; for a large part, they have been replaced by BHTs, which are just as controversial.
In cosmetics, European regulations have not issued any restrictions on their use for the moment (in which product, what percentage...).
I therefore invite you to carefully check the INCI lists of your products (and not to rely on the name of a product which may very well use the term BHA to refer to Salicylic acid)
(to learn more? you can read the article by cosmeticObs)
Certain Sunscreens - Pregnant Women & Cosmetics
Don't believe everything you see online; some information can be astounding! No, not all sunscreens are prohibited for pregnant women! Only those containing the ingredients we mentioned earlier. (To refresh your memory: Benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone), 4-methylbenzylidene (4MBC), Homosalate (HMS), Octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC), octyl-dymethylPABA (OD-PABA))
It is highly recommended for pregnant women to use sunscreens from the beginning of pregnancy! We will publish an article on this topic soon!
Mineral Oils - Pregnant Women and Cosmetics
Mineral oils have been used in cosmetics for over 100 years. They are oils that are very well tolerated by the skin, causing no allergies. For this reason, they are widely used in pharmaceutical products, especially to target the most sensitive and fragile skin types.
However, these oils, due to their origin and manufacturing processes, are increasingly being singled out. Indeed, in a world that increasingly seeks naturalness, organic products, and respect for the environment, mineral oils are not seen favorably.
Mineral Oils: What Are They?
Mineral oils are ingredients derived from petrochemicals (crude oil, coal, certain shales), obtained from residues of petroleum distillation. This process yields an odorless, colorless, and stable oil.
They are refined to achieve a pharmaceutical-grade purity.
The most well-known are Paraffin and Vaseline.
Even though they do not appear to pose any particular risk to the skin, mineral oils are increasingly being criticized.
The Advantages of Mineral Oils.
Mineral oils do not bring anything to the skin (no nutritive elements that will participate in its structure or function), but they do offer several advantages.
- It is a stable oil. Unlike a vegetable oil, which is sensitive to oxidation, mineral oil never goes rancid, as it is inert and therefore contains no fatty acids or vitamins. This allows for the formulation of very stable products against oxidation, without the need for antioxidants.
- It is an inexpensive oil: Its low cost allows for a lower formulation price. It is the cheapest oil on the market. (It costs 10 times less than a vegetable oil).
- It is a neutral oil: They are odorless, colorless, and stable, allowing for great ease of formulation.
- It is an occlusive oil: It deposits a film on the skin, preventing the evaporation of water present in our epidermis and thus playing an indirect role in its hydration.
Why Avoid Mineral Oils
Nowadays, mineral oils are often perceived as harmful, and several websites will explain that they should simply be avoided. However, they are authorized by European regulations and are not considered dangerous for humans. So, what are the criticisms leveled against them?
- Too Occlusive: What is perceived as a quality can also pose a problem. The film they deposit on the skin can prevent other active ingredients from penetrating (vitamins, etc.); they slow down the natural flow of sebum (sebum contributes to skin hydration and provides lipophilic antioxidants to the skin surface) and finally prevent its oxygenation. However, be aware that this extreme occlusive effect can be sought in certain specific products (eczema, chronic psoriasis) to prevent any evaporation of water coming from the deep layers of the dermis, and thus maintain skin hydration.
- They are perceived as comedogenic: They should be avoided in cases of oily skin or acne problems because they are perceived as comedogenic, meaning they tend to clog pores and prevent sebum from being evacuated (This can thus accelerate the formation of blackheads, and more generally of imperfections because blackheads often turn into pimples or micro-cysts.)
- They are not clean for the environment: Fossil origin: Mineral oils are petroleum derivatives, a non-renewable resource that requires energy-intensive extraction and transformation processes. Refining process: The manufacturing of mineral oils often involves an intensive chemical refining process, which can lead to polluting emissions and contribute to air, water, and soil pollution. Limited biodegradability: These oils tend to be poorly biodegradable, which means they can persist in the environment for long periods after use, potentially contributing to ecosystem pollution. Impact on fauna and flora: In case of accidental spills or improper disposal, mineral oils can have a negative impact on aquatic and terrestrial life, disrupting natural ecosystems.
- They bring nothing to the skin: Unlike a vegetable oil that could be used to replace them.
In summary
From an ecological point of view: In short, although widely used in the cosmetic industry due to their cost and versatility, mineral oils raise environmental concerns because of their fossil origin, low biodegradability, and potential environmental impact. Choosing natural and biodegradable alternatives can be beneficial in reducing the environmental footprint of cosmetic products.
From a health perspective: Although some concerns have been raised about the use of mineral oils (potential contamination by carcinogenic polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), occlusive skin barrier, skin reactions), many studies and regulations aim to ensure their safety in cosmetic products.
Our advice? Favor products containing vegetable oils! Leave mineral oils aside.
Vegetable oils, often extracted from seeds, fruits, or plants, are fatty substances of vegetable origin rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants. Unlike mineral oils derived from petroleum, vegetable oils are obtained by cold pressing or mechanical extraction from plants.
These vegetable oils are often praised for their nourishing, moisturizing, softening, and regenerating properties for the skin.
Alcohol and Fragrances - Pregnant Women and Cosmetics
Pregnant women are often encouraged to avoid cosmetics containing fragrance or alcohol for several reasons:
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Increased sensitivity: During pregnancy, the skin can become more sensitive. Products containing fragrances or alcohol sometimes have irritating components that could cause skin reactions such as irritation, redness, or allergies. Since the skin can be more reactive during this period, it is recommended to minimize the use of products likely to further irritate the skin.
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Avoid potential allergens: Fragrances often contain dozens, or even hundreds, of chemical components. Some of these compounds could be allergens or cause undesirable reactions in some people, including pregnant women. Given that skin reaction can be more intense during pregnancy, it is prudent to limit exposure to potential allergens.
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Skin absorption: Cosmetic products containing alcohol can have skin absorption capacity, although this varies depending on the type of alcohol and its concentration. During pregnancy, due to concerns about the potential effects of chemicals on the fetus, some women prefer to avoid using products containing alcohol to minimize the risk of exposure.
It is essential for pregnant women to take precautions with the products they use during this particular period of their lives. Opting for fragrance-free or alcohol-free products, or those specifically designed for pregnant women, can be an option to reduce the potential risks of skin reactions or exposure to potentially undesirable substances. It is also recommended to consult a healthcare professional or dermatologist for specific advice on cosmetic products to use during pregnancy.
Essential Oils - Pregnant Women and Cosmetics
Essential oils are often wrongly criticized during pregnancy. Little accurate information circulates on this important subject, leading to a kind of witch hunt. Which essential oils are forbidden during pregnancy? At what dosage? Should we exclude them from our beauty products? We will try our best to answer your questions and I invite you to read the dedicated article if you want more details.
Essential oils definition
An essential oil is a liquid and aromatic extract obtained by extraction or distillation of plant material (plant, fruit, etc.) which concentrates its volatile active compounds. It represents the quintessence of the plant, including leaves, wood, roots, bark, fruits, in the form of a concentrate, rich in a wide variety of active substances precisely identified by chromatographic analysis.
Essential oils in cosmetics or aromatherapy?
It is important to differentiate between the use of essential oils in aromatherapy and in cosmetic products!
Essential oils are powerful concentrates of active ingredients. Their use in pure form or in a cream is not at all the same thing.
At Kosmorebi, we do not exceed 1% essential oils in our products. (To give you an idea, we are at a maximum of 0.25 in our creams and 0.8 in our makeup removers). We are very far from the pure use you find in aromatherapy.
It is therefore important to be discerning about the articles you find online that don't always distinguish between a cream and a pure essential oil.
The methods of using essential oils are also a factor to consider:
In all cases, if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, do not use any pure essential oils without a doctor's recommendations.
Which essential oils are forbidden for pregnant women?
Indeed, not all essential oils are forbidden for pregnant women, quite the contrary! Some are beneficial and are even used in medicine to provide various benefits. The important thing is to know when to use them, in what form, and at what dosage!
The "forbidden" essential oils are those containing ketones, as they can be potentially neurotoxic and abortifacient. We therefore recommend that pregnant and breastfeeding women (as well as young children) do not use products containing them.
Here is a list of the main essential oils containing ketone:
Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium)
Dill (Anethum graveolens)
Caraway (Carum carvi)
Atlas Cedar (Cedrus atlantica)
Eucalyptus Dives (Eucalyptus dives)
Eucalyptus Globulus (Ecalyptus globulus):
Fennel (Fœniculum vulgare)
Stoechas Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)
Spike Lavender (Lavandula latifolia)
Lavandin (Lavandula hybrida)
Italian Helichrysum (Helichrysum italicum)
Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis)
Pennyroyal Mint (Mentha pulegium)
Wild Mint (Mentha arvensis)
Peppermint (Mentha x piperita)
Spearmint (Mentha spicata)
Rosemary Camphor (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Rosemary Verbenone (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Rosemary Cineole (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Common Sage (Salvia officinalis)
Annual Tansy (Tanacetum annuum)
Western Thuja (Thuya occidentalis)
Aluminum salts - Pregnant Women and Cosmetics
Aluminum salts are chemical compounds commonly used in certain cosmetic products, particularly in antiperspirants or deodorants. They work by forming a temporary plug in the sweat glands to reduce perspiration.
However, there have been concerns and debates about the safety of long-term use of aluminum salts in cosmetics. These concerns are mainly related to their potential for skin absorption and their possible link to certain health problems, although research and conclusions on this subject are still subject to debate and study.
Here are some key points to consider:
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Skin absorption: Some aluminum salts can be absorbed through the skin, although the actual amount absorbed is debatable. There are concerns about the accumulation of these substances in the body and their impact on health, particularly due to their potential to disrupt the hormonal system.
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Relationship with certain diseases: Studies have been conducted to explore a possible link between long-term use of aluminum salts in cosmetics and diseases such as Alzheimer's or breast cancer. However, the results of these studies are mixed and do not show a clear cause-and-effect relationship.
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Regulations and controversies: Aluminum salts are regulated in many countries, and their use in cosmetics is sometimes restricted due to health concerns. Despite this, there is still a scientific debate about their safety and their possible role in certain health conditions.
For pregnant women, caution is often recommended due to increased sensitivity during pregnancy. Some health professionals advise pregnant women to avoid products containing aluminum salts due to potential concerns for fetal development.
In conclusion, although aluminum salts are still widely used in some cosmetic products, there are ongoing debates and concerns about their long-term safety. It is recommended that individuals concerned about their use consult a healthcare professional for advice tailored to their individual situation.
We advise you not to use products containing aluminum salt during your pregnancy or while breastfeeding your child.
Thank you for reading
This brings us to the end of our article. I hope I have been able to answer your questions and that it hasn't been too hard to digest! If not, please do not hesitate to contact us, we would be delighted to discuss with you!
In any case, we strongly advise you to seek medical advice!
If you wish to delve deeper into the subject, some articles and links are provided at the bottom of the page!
Links & Articles
Some interesting links to read.
American study on triclosan in pregnant women
Several very comprehensive articles on endocrine disruptors and their regulation, Cosméticobs
- "Allergenic
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